8 Unexpected Factors That Can Threaten Your Home Sale

 Think your home is in top shape to sell? Not so fast. There are several unexpected hazards a home
inspector can uncover that are enough to make prospective buyers run. Some are literally hidden from view; others sellers simply miss.
People who live in a house for a long time often overlook the defects, It’s not that they’re trying to hide them – they just don’t notice them anymore.
To catch these problems before it’s too late, consider hiring a professional to conduct a home inspection before putting your house on the market. In fact, having your home pre-inspected could save you money in the long run.
It gives the seller time to obtain estimates and get repairs done, which is an advantage since jobs that are done fast usually cost more,
Also, if you deal with these problems in the eleventh hour you may be forced to give the buyer some large credit that’s financially much more than what it would cost to repair these things yourself.
That’s because prospective buyers are given a sense of security knowing that major problems have already been taken care of and won’t cost them a fortune down the line.

Read on for eight potential deal-breakers to check for, plus tips on how to fix them.

Mold
When it comes to mold, it’s the yuck factor that often turns buyers off. Some people can tell if there’s mold in a house just by smelling it, while others are bothered by mold because it looks bad,
But mold also has the potential to cause health problems. According to the Environmental Protection Agency, mold can cause allergic reactions such as sneezing, runny nose, red eyes and skin rash, and can also trigger asthma attacks.
Luckily, you can usually clean up mold yourself with some common household products. The CDC recommends scrubbing mold off hard surfaces with soap and water, or a bleach solution of no more than 1 cup of bleach in 1 gallon of water. However, absorbent or porous materials, such as ceiling tiles and carpets, may have to be thrown away if they become moldy. Of course, don’t forget to fix plumbing leaks or other water problems too, or the mold is likely to come back.
 
Asbestos
Is asbestos lurking in your home? It’s possible, since the mineral fiber was used in many building products until the 1970s for insulation and as a fire-retardant. (See a list of common places where asbestos can be found on the Environmental Protection Agency website.)
Asbestos can be dangerous and even deadly when its microscopic fibers are inhaled, increasing your risk of developing such serious illnesses as lung cancer, mesothelioma (a cancer found in the thin lining of the lung, chest, abdomen and heart) and asbestosis, a noncancerous disease of the lungs.
Don’t panic, though – danger only occurs when asbestos-containing materials are damaged or disturbed (such as through a remodeling job) and released into the air. Still, it’s a good idea to have your home tested for asbestos. If the inspector determines that the asbestos is a problem, or if you simply don’t want to risk scaring off potential buyers, you can either repair it, which involves sealing or covering asbestos material, or you can remove it, which is the more expensive option that also poses the greatest risk of fiber release, according to the EPA. Either way, the EPA advises that you hire professionals who are trained,
experienced, reputable and accredited – especially if accreditation is required by state or local laws.

Underground oil tanks
Underground oil tanks can be a real red flag to prospective buyers due to their potential to leak and contaminate groundwater. Because leaky oil tanks can cost thousands of dollars to fix, and insurance companies often do not provide coverage, buyers won’t want to have to shoulder that cost down the line.
Sellers should also know that even if there is an underground oil tank on your property that is not in use, it still might have oil inside it. Consider getting the oil tank on your property removed to increase your chances of selling. If your home still relies on oil for heat, have a new oil tank installed safely above ground.

Lead paint
Was your home built before the late 1970s? If so, there’s a good chance it might contain lead-based paint, according to the EPA, since it wasn’t until 1978 that the government banned lead-based paint from being used in homes. You can get lead in your body by breathing or swallowing lead dust, or by eating soil or paint chips containing lead (a risk for small children). Lead paint can scare away potential buyers because of its connection to a variety of maladies, including behavioral and learning problems in kids, reproductive problems, high blood pressure and memory and concentration problems. By law, homeowners must disclose known information on lead-based paint and lead-based paint hazards before selling a house, and
sales contracts must include a disclosure form about lead-based paint, according to the EPA.
To take care of your lead paint problem, unfortunately you can’t just paint over it. Instead, you must hire a certified lead “abatement” contractor who can remove, seal or enclose lead-based paint with special materials. To find a certified contractor, contact the The National Lead Information Center.

Unsafe stairwells
When it comes to hazards that homeowners simply don’t notice anymore, unsafe stairwells are high on the list. It’s important to make sure stairs in your home have certain safety features in place, which can be especially important for homeowners with young children. We recommend doing the following to prepare for a sale:
Fix handrails that are loose, incomplete or splintery.
Install a light switch at the top and bottom of each staircase.
Make sure platform or landing surfaces are slip-resistant
Fix risers of uneven height.
Exterior steps should be sloped to prevent water settlement and icing.
Carpeting should be firmly affixed to stairs.

Radon
You’ve heard about the dangers of carbon monoxide, but have you had your house tested for radon? “A lot of homes have this, and it’s about as invisible and hidden as you can get,” This extremely toxic, colorless gas that comes from the natural decay of uranium from soil in the ground. According to the EPA, exposure to radon in the home is responsible for an estimated 20,000 lung cancer deaths each year, and is the
number-one cause of lung cancer among non-smokers.
You can test radon levels yourself with an inexpensive testing kit available at home improvement stores, such as the Kidde Radon Gas Test Kit for $15 at Lowe’s. If your home is found to have unsafe radon levels (4 picocuries per liter in air or higher, says the EPA), you can hire a radon mitigation contractor to take care of the problem. One common technique contractors use is soil suction, which prevents radon from entering your home by drawing the radon from below the home and venting it through a pipe to the air above the home where it is quickly diluted.

Problems in the attic
Who could forget the hilarious scene in National Lampoon’s Christmas Vacation where the hapless Clark Griswold wakes up early to sneak presents for his family into the attic, only to get smacked in the face by the attic’s collapsible pull-down ladder. The truth is, though, attics can be a dangerous place in real life, too.
When it comes to attic ladders, the problem is often that homeowners install the ladders themselves without adhering to safety
standards. If you’re preparing for a home sale, be sure to take certain precautions, says Gromicko, such as tightening all nuts and bolts and fixing any cracked steps. You can also consider replacing an old, rickety wooden ladder with a new, aluminum model as well.
Improper attic ventilation is also a cause for concern for home inspectors. Houses that are not properly ventilated cause a variety of problems, including rapid shingle deterioration on the roof, wood rot and mold buildup on the exterior of the home, as well as high temperatures throughout the living spaces in the summer. To keep your attic well-ventilated, we suggest using special vents (such as roof, gable and ridge vents) or an attic fan.

Overhanging tree branches 
Homeowners often don’t notice them, but tree branches that hang over your house can cause a lot of damage during storms,  Indeed, this was a tough lesson learned by many homeowners in the Northeast during an early snowfall in late October, as
the weight of the snow snapped many tree limbs onto roofs and power lines.
Be sure to hire a professional tree service to remove any tree branches that dangle over your home before showing your home to
buyers.

Air Quality in the Home

Indoor air quality is generally worse than most people believe, but there are things you can do about it. 

 

Some Quick Facts:

• Indoor air quality can be worse than that of outdoor air.
• Problems can arise from moisture, insects, pets, appliances, radon, materials used in household products and furnishings, smoke, and other sources.
• Effects range from minor annoyances to major health risks.
• Remedies include ventilation, cleaning, moisture control, inspections, and following manufacturers' directions when using appliances and products.

Research has shown that the quality of indoor air can be worse than that of outdoor air. Many homes are built or remodeled more tightly, without regard to the factors that assure fresh and healthy indoor air. Our homes today contain many furnishings, appliances and products that can affect indoor air quality.

 

Signs of indoor air quality problems include:

• unusual and noticeable odors;
• stale or stuffy air;
• a noticeable lack of air movement;
• dirty or faulty central heating or air-conditioning equipment;
• damaged flue pipes and chimneys;
• unvented combustion air sources for fossil-fuel appliances;
• excessive humidity;
• the presence of molds and mildew;
• adverse health reaction after remodeling, weatherizing, bringing in new furniture, using household and hobby products, and moving into a new home; and 
• feeling noticeably healthier outside.

Common Sources of Air Quality Problems

 

Poor indoor air quality can arise from many sources. At least some of the following contaminants can be found in almost any home:

• moisture and biological pollutants, such as molds, mildew, dust mites, animal dander, and cockroaches;
• high humidity levels, inadequate ventilation, and poorly maintained humidifiers and air conditioners;
• combustion products, including carbon monoxide, from unvented fossil-fuel space heaters, unvented gas stoves and ovens, and back-drafting from furnaces and water heaters;
• formaldehyde from durable-press draperies and other textiles, particleboard products, such as cabinets and furniture framing, and adhesives;
• radon, which is a radioactive gas from the soil and rock beneath and around the home's foundation, groundwater wells, and some building materials;
• household products and furnishings, such as paints, solvents, air fresheners, hobby supplies, dry-cleaned clothing, aerosol sprays, adhesives, and fabric additives used in carpeting and furniture, which can release volatile organic compounds (VOCs); 
• asbestos, which is found in most homes more than 20 years old. Sources include deteriorating, damaged and disturbed pipe insulation, fire retardant, acoustical material (such as ceiling tiles) and floor tiles;
• lead from lead-based paint dust, which is created when removing paint by sanding, scraping and burning;
• particulates from dust and pollen, fireplaces, wood stoves, kerosene heaters and unvented gas space heaters; and
• tobacco smoke, which produces particulates, combustion products and formaldehyde.

Remedies to Indoor Air Quality Problems

 

Living Areas

 

Paneling, pressed-wood furniture, and cabinetry may release formaldehyde gas.

Remedy: Ask about formaldehyde content before buying furniture and cabinets. Some types of pressed-wood products, such as those with phenol resin, emit less formaldehyde. Also, products coated with polyurethane or laminates may reduce formaldehyde emissions. After installation, open windows. Maintain moderate temperature and humidity.

 

Biological pollutants can grow on water-damaged carpet. New carpet can release organic gases.

Remedy: Promptly clean and dry water-damaged carpet, or remove it altogether. If adhesives are needed, ask for low-emitting ones. During installation, open doors and windows, and use window fans or room air conditioners. Vacuum regularly. Consider area rugs instead of wall-to-wall carpet. Rugs are easier to remove and clean, and the floor underneath can also be cleaned.

 

Some floor tiles contain asbestos.

Remedy: Periodically inspect for damage or deterioration. Do not cut, rip, sand or remove any asbestos-containing materials. If you plan to make changes that might disturb the asbestos, or if materials are more than slightly damaged, contact a professional for repair or removal. Call your local or state health department or the Environmental Protection Agency.

 

Moisture encourages biological pollutants including allergens, such as mold, mildew, dust mites and cockroaches.

Remedy: If possible, eliminate moisture sources. Install and use exhaust fans. Use a dehumidifier, if necessary. Remove molds and mildew by cleaning with a solution of chlorine bleach (1 cup bleach to 1 gallon water). Maintain fresh air with natural and mechanical air circulation.

 

Your fireplace can be a source of carbon monoxide and combustion pollutants.

Remedy: Open the flue when using the fireplace. Have the flue and chimney inspected annually for exhaust back-drafting, flue obstructions, cracks, excess creosote, and other damage. Install smoke and carbon monoxide detectors.

 

An air conditioner can be a source of biological allergens.

Remedy: If there is a water tray, empty and clean it often. Follow all service and maintenance procedures, including changing the filter.

 

Gas and kerosene space heaters can release carbon monoxide and combustion pollutants.

Remedy: Never use unvented kerosene or gas space heaters. In the room where the heater is located, provide fresh air by opening a door to the rest of the house, turning on an exhaust fan, and slightly opening a window.

 

Tobacco smoke contains harmful combustion and particulate pollutants, including carbon monoxide and combustion byproducts.

Remedy: Do not smoke in your home or permit others to do so, especially near children. If smoking cannot be avoided indoors, open windows and use exhaust fans.

 

New draperies may be treated with a formaldehyde-based finish and emit odors for a short time.

Remedy: Before hanging, air draperies to ventilate odors. After hanging, ventilate the area. Maintain moderate temperature and humidity.

 

Paint manufactured before l978 may contain lead.

Remedy: Leave lead-based paint undisturbed if it is in good condition. Before removing paint, test for lead. Do-it-yourself lead test kits are available from hardware and building supply stores. Do not sand, burn off or remove lead-based paint yourself. Hire a person with special training to correct lead-based paint problems. For more information, call 1-800-LEAD-FYI.

 

Many animals create airborne allergens, such as dander, hair, feathers and skin.

Remedy: Keep pets outdoors as much as possible. Clean the entire house regularly. Deep-clean areas where pets are permitted. Bathe pets regularly.

 

Biological allergens caused by dust mites can trigger asthma.

Remedy: Clean and vacuum regularly. Wash bedding in water hotter than 130 degrees F. Use more hard-surface finishes; they are less likely to attract and hold dust mites.

 

Kitchen

 

Unhealthy and irritating vapors may be released from chemicals in household cleaners and similar products. Remedy: Select nonaerosol and non-toxic products. Use, apply, store and dispose of them according to manufacturers' directions. If products are concentrated, label the storage container with dilution instructions. Use up a product completely before discarding its container.

 

Pressed-wood cabinets can be a source of formaldehyde vapor.

Remedy: Maintain moderate temperatures (80 degrees maximum) and humidity (about 45%). When purchasing new cabinets, select solid wood or metal cabinets, or those made with phenol resin; they emit less formaldehyde. Ventilate well after installation.

 

Unvented gas stoves and ranges are sources of carbon monoxide and combustion byproducts.

Remedy: Keep appliance burners clean. Have burners periodically adjusted (blue-flame tip, not yellow). Install and use an exhaust fan. Never use a gas range or stove to heat your home.

 

Bathroom

Organic gases are released from chemicals in some personal care products, such as deodorant, hair spray, shampoo, toner, nail polish and perfumes.

Remedy: Select odor-free or low odor-producing products. Select nonaerosol varieties. Open a window, or use an exhaust fan. Follow manufacturers' directions when using the product and disposing of containers.

 

Air fresheners can release organic gases.

Remedy: Open a window or use the exhaust fan. Follow manufacturers' directions. Select natural products.

 

Bedroom

Humidifiers and cold-mist vaporizers can encourage biological allergens, including mold, mildew and cockroaches, that can trigger asthma, and encourage the spread of viruses and the growth of bacteria.

Remedy: Use and clean these appliances according to manufacturers' directions. Refill daily with fresh water.

 

Moth repellents often contain the pesticide paradichlorobenzene.

Remedy: Avoid breathing vapors. Place them in tightly sealed trunks or other containers. Store separately, away from living areas.

 

Chemicals used in the dry-cleaning process release organic gases.

Remedy: Bring any odors to the attention of your dry cleaner. Try to air out dry-cleaned goods before bringing them indoors. Seek alternatives to dry cleaning, such as hand washing items.  Consider using green dry cleaners who use newer, non-toxic solvents and methods to clean garments.

 

Utility Room

 

Unvented gas clothes dryers produce carbon monoxide and combustion byproducts and can be a fire hazard. Remedy: Regularly dispose of lint around and under the dryer. Provide air for gas units. Vent the dryer directly to the outdoors. Clean the lint trap, vent and ductwork regularly.

 

Gas and oil furnaces and boilers, and gas water heaters can produce air-quality problems which include back-drafting of carbon monoxide and combustion pollutants.

Remedy: Have your heating system and water heater, including gas piping and venting, inspected every year.

 

Asbestos pipe wrap and furnace insulation can release asbestos fibers into the air.

Remedy: Periodically check for damage and deterioration. Do not cut, rip, sand or remove any asbestos-containing materials. If you plan to make changes that might disturb the asbestos, or if materials are more than slightly damaged, contact a professional for repair or removal.

 

Basement

Ground moisture encourages biological allergens, including mold and mildew.

Remedy: Inspect for condensation on walls, standing water on the floor, and sewage leaks. To keep the basement dry, prevent outside water from entering indoors by installing roof gutters and downspouts, by not watering close to the foundation, by grading soil away from the home, and by applying waterproofing sealants to the basement's interior walls. To prevent the accumulation of standing water, consider installing a sump pump. If sewage is the source of water intrusion, have drains professionally cleaned. If moisture has no obvious source, install an exhaust fan controlled by humidity levels. Remove mold and mildew. Regularly clean and disinfect the basement floor drain.

 

Radon is an invisible, radioactive gas which poses the risk of lung cancer.

Remedy: Test your home for radon. Do-it-yourself kits are inexpensive and easy to use. Have an experienced radon contractor mitigate your home if your radon level is 4 picocuries per liter (pCi/L) or higher.

 

Chemicals in hobby products, such as solvents, paint, glue and epoxy, release organic gases. Remedy: Follow manufacturers' directions for use, ventilation, application, clean-up, and container storage and disposal. Use outdoors when possible. When using indoors, open a window or use an exhaust fan. Re-seal containers tightly. Clean tools outside or in a well-ventilated area.

 

Garage

Car and small engine exhaust are sources of carbon monoxide and combustion byproducts.

Remedy: Never leave vehicles, lawn mowers, snowmobiles, etc., running in the garage.

 

Paint, solvent and cleaning supplies may release harmful vapors.

Remedy: Provide ventilation when using them. Follow manufacturers' directions. Buy only as much as you need. If the products contain methylene chloride, such as paint strippers, use them outdoors. Re-seal containers well. Keep products in their original, labeled containers. Clean brushes and other materials outside.  Opt for non-toxic green products whenever possible.

 

Pesticides and fertilizers used in the yard and garden may be toxic.

Remedy: Use non-chemical methods whenever possible. Follow manufacturers' directions for mixing, applying and storing.  Wear protective clothing. Mix or dilute these products outdoors. Provide ventilation when using them indoors. Store them outside of the home in their original, labeled containers. After using the product, remove your shoes and clean your hands and clothing to avoid bringing the chemicals into your home.

 

Smoke and Carbon Monoxide Detectors

• Install a smoke detector in each bedroom or in the adjacent hallway.
• If you have gas or other fossil-fuel appliances in the house, install carbon monoxide detectors in these locations.
• Combination smoke and carbon monoxide detectors are available.
• Check the batteries frequently, at least annually.

Amount of Ventilation

 

If too little outdoor air enters a home, pollutants can accumulate to levels that can pose health and comfort problems. Unless they are built with a special mechanical means of ventilation, homes that are designed and constructed to minimize the amount of outdoor air that can "leak" into and out of the home may have higher pollutant levels than other homes. However, because some weather conditions can drastically reduce the amount of outdoor air that enters a home, pollutants can build up even in homes that are normally considered "leaky."

 

How Does Outdoor Air Enter a House?

 

Outdoor air enters and leaves a house by infiltration, natural ventilation and mechanical ventilation. In a process known as infiltration, outdoor air flows into the house through openings, joints and cracks in walls, floors and ceilings, and around windows and doors. In natural ventilation, air moves through opened windows and doors. Air movement associated with infiltration and natural ventilation is caused by air-temperature differences between the indoors and outdoors, and by wind. Finally, there are a number of mechanical ventilation devices, from outdoor-vented fans that intermittently remove air from a single room, such as the bathroom and kitchen, to air-handling systems that use fans and ductwork to continuously remove indoor air and distribute filtered and conditioned outdoor air to strategic points throughout the house. The rate at which outdoor air replaces indoor air is described as the air-exchange rate. When there is little infiltration, natural ventilation or mechanical ventilation, the air-exchange rate is low and pollutant levels can increase.

 

Indoor Air Pollution and Health

 

Health effects from indoor air pollutants may be experienced soon after exposure or, possibly years later.

 

Immediate Effects

 

Immediate effects may show up after a single exposure, or it may take repeated exposures. These include irritation of the eyes, nose and throat, headaches, dizziness and fatigue. Such immediate effects are usually short-term and treatable. Sometimes, the treatment is simply eliminating the person's exposure to the source of the pollution, if it can be identified. Symptoms of some diseases, including asthma, hypersensitivity pneumonitis, and humidifier fever, may also show up soon after exposure to some indoor air pollutants.

 

The likelihood of immediate reactions to indoor air pollutants depends on several factors. Age and pre-existing medical conditions are two important influences. In other cases, whether a person reacts to a pollutant depends on individual sensitivity, which varies tremendously from person to person. Some people can become sensitized to biological pollutants after repeated exposures, and it appears that some people can become sensitized to chemical pollutants, as well.

 

Certain immediate effects are similar to those from colds and other viral diseases, so it is often difficult to determine if the symptoms are a result of exposure to indoor air pollution. For this reason, it is important to pay attention to the time and place that symptoms occur. If the symptoms fade or go away when a person is away from home, for example, an effort should be made to identify indoor air sources that may be possible causes. Some effects may be made worse by an inadequate supply of outdoor air, or from the heating, cooling or humidity conditions prevalent in the home.

 

Long-Term Effects

 

Other health effects may show up years after exposure has occurred, or only after long or repeated periods of exposure. These effects, which include some respiratory diseases, heart disease and cancer, can be severely debilitating or fatal. It is prudent to try to improve the indoor air quality in your home even if symptoms are not noticeable.

 

While pollutants commonly found in indoor air are responsible for many harmful effects, there is considerable uncertainty about what concentrations or periods of exposure are necessary to produce specific health problems. People also react very differently to exposure to indoor air pollutants. Further research is needed to better understand which health effects occur after exposure to the average pollutant concentrations found in homes, and which occur from the higher concentrations over short periods of time.

 

In summary, indoor air contaminants can be a source of ill health. Our inspectors are trained in air quality to perform your next home inspection. 

 

Basic Waterproofing for Basements

Water Damage Concerns

 

Basements are typically the area of a structure most at risk for water damage because they are located below grade and surrounded by soil.  Soil releases water it has absorbed during rain or when snow melts, and the water can end up in the basement through leaks or cracks.  Water can even migrate through solid concrete walls via capillary action, which is a phenomenon whereby liquid spontaneously rises in a narrow space, such as a thin tube, or via porous materials.  Wet basements can cause problems that include peeling paint, toxic mold contamination, building rot, foundation collapse, and termite damage.  Even interior air quality can be affected if naturally occurring gasses released by the soil are being transmitted into the basement. 

Properly waterproofing a basement will lessen the risk of damage caused by moisture or water.  Homeowners will want to be aware of what they can do to keep their basements dry and safe from damage.  Inspectors can also benefit from being aware of these basic strategies for preventing leaks and floods.

Prevent water entry by diverting it away from the foundation.

Preventing water from entering the basement by ensuring it is diverted away from the foundation is of primary concern.  Poor roof drainage and surface runoff due to gutter defects and improper site grading may be the most common causes of wet basements.  Addressing these issues will go a long way toward ensuring that water does not penetrate the basement.

Here are some measures to divert water away from the foundation:

 

• Install and maintain gutters and downspouts so that they route all rainwater and snow melt far enough away from the foundation of the building to ensure that pooling does not occur near the walls of the structure.  At least 10 feet from the building is best, and at the point where water leaves the downspout, it should be able to flow freely away from the foundation instead of back toward it, and should not be collecting in pools.
  
• The finish grade should be sloped away from the building for 10 to 15 feet.  Low spots that may lead to water pooling should be evened out to prevent the possibility of standing water near the foundation.
  
• Shallow ditches called swales should be used in conditions where one or more sides of the building face an upward slope.  A swale should slope away from the building for 10 to 15 feet, at which point it can empty into another swale that directs water around to the downhill-side of the building, leading it away from the foundation.

Repair all cracks and holes.

 

If leaks or seepage is occurring in the basement's interior, water and moisture are most likely entering through small cracks or holes.  The cracks or holes could be the result of several things.  Poor workmanship during the original build may be making itself apparent in the form of cracks or holes.  Water pressure from the outside may be building up, forcing water through walls.  The house may have settled, causing cracks in the floor or walls.  Repairing all cracks and small holes will help prevent leaks and floods.

 

Here are some steps to take if you suspect that water is entering the basement through cracks or holes:

 

• Identify areas where water may be entering through cracks or holes by checking for moisture, leaking or discoloration.  Every square inch of the basement should be examined, especially in cases where leaking or flooding has not been obvious, but moisture buildup is readily apparent.
  
• A mixture of epoxy and latex cement can be used to fill small hairline cracks and holes.  This is a waterproof formula that can help ensure that moisture and water do not penetrate basement walls.  It is effective primarily for very small cracks and holes.
  
• Any cracks larger than about 1/8-inch should be filled with mortar made from one part cement and two parts fine sand, with just enough water to make a fairly stiff mortar.  It should be pressed firmly into all parts of the larger cracks and holes to be sure that no air bubbles or pockets remain.  As long as water is not being forced through basement walls due to outside pressure, the application of mortar with a standard trowel will be sufficient if special care is taken to fill all cracks completely.
  
• If water is being forced through by outside pressure, a slightly different method of patching with mortar can be used.  Surface areas of walls or floors with cracks should first be chiseled out a bit at the mouth of the crack and all along its length.  Using a chipping chisel and hammer or a cold chisel, cut a dovetail groove along the mouth of each crack to be filled, and then apply the mortar thoroughly.  The dovetail groove, once filled, should be strong enough to resist the force of pressure that was pushing water through the crack.

Apply sodium-silicate sealant to the walls and floor.

Once all runoff has been thoroughly diverted away from the foundation, and all cracks and holes have been repaired and no leaking is occurring, a waterproof sealant can be applied as a final measure. 

Sodium silicate is a water-based mixture that will actually penetrate the substrate by up to 4 inches.  Concrete, concrete block and masonry have lime as a natural component of their composition, which reacts with the sodium silicate to produce a solid, crystalline structure which fills in all the microscopic cracks, holes and pores of the substrate.  No water vapor or gas will be able penetrate via capillary action because the concrete and masonry have now become harder and denser from the sodium silicate. 

 

Here are some steps and tips for its application:

• Special care should be taken when applying sodium silicate.  It is an alkaline substance and, as such, can burn skin and eyes if it comes into contact with them.  Inhalation can also cause irritation to the respiratory tract.
  
• Sodium silicate must be applied only to bare concrete, concrete block or masonry that has been cleaned thoroughly and is free of any dirt, oil, adhesives, paint and grease.  This will ensure that it penetrates the substrate properly and fills in all microscopic cracks.  It can be applied using a garden sprayer, roller or brush to a surface that has first been lightly dampened with a mop or brush.  Apply two to three coats to the concrete, waiting 10 to 20 minutes between each application.  Concrete block and masonry will take three to four coats, with the same 10 to 20 minutes between applications.  Any excess should then be wiped away.  Sodium silicate should not be over-applied or it will not be completely absorbed by the substrate, leaving a white residue.
  
• Paint can then be applied without fear of water vapor getting trapped between the paint and the wall, which could eventually cause blistering and peeling.  Adhesives for tile or floor covering can also be used more effectively, once the substrate has been sealed.

Diverting water away from foundations so that it does not collect outside basement walls and floors is a key element in preventing flooding and water damage.  Ensuring that any water that does end up near basement exteriors cannot enter through holes or cracks is also important, and sealing with a waterproof compound will help prevent water vapor or gas from penetrating, as well.  By following these procedures, the risk of water-related issues in basement interiors can be greatly reduced, protecting the building from damage such as foundation rotting, mold growth, and peeling paint, as well as improving the interior air quality by blocking the transmission of gasses from the soil outside. 

 

 

Tornado Safety and Inspection

Tornadoes, also known as twisters or cyclones, are whirling columns of air that form with little warning and carve unpredictable paths of destruction through communities worldwide. 

America’s “Tornado Alley” – roughly the area between the Rocky Mountains and the Appalachian Mountains – where tornadoes kill dozens and cause billions of dollars in damage annually, sustains the majority of these storms. The extreme danger posed by tornadoes to families and their homes justifies the need for InterNACHI inspectors and their clients to learn some basic tips concerning tornado behavior, preparedness, and
post-storm damage inspection.

 

What Causes Tornadoes?

 

Tornadoes form from giant storms called supercells, which are fast-rotating updrafts created when colder polar air meets warmer tropical air. Changing wind speeds and direction can cause rising air to rotate vertically, creating within the larger supercell what is known as a mesocyclone. For reasons not yet understood, columns of strong rotating air can develop within the mesocyclone, eventually extending from the cloud base to the ground in the form of a tornado. Their size, shape and color vary greatly, from transparent, narrow funnels several hundred feet across to dark wedges wider than they are tall.

Tornadoes damage small areas and thus cause less damage nationwide than hurricanes and tropical storms, but for those caught in their path, tornadoes can wreak havoc unmatched by any other weather phenomenon. Most tornadoes have wind speeds of less than 110 miles per hour and dissipate after several miles, but larger storms can exceed 300 miles per hour and devastate communities hundreds of miles apart.

Facts and Figures

• Of the 50 states, Florida experiences the most tornadoes per unit area, while Oklahoma is hit by the strongest tornadoes per unit area. Bangaldesh, due to its poor building construction and general lack of tornado awareness, has the highest annual tornado death toll of any country.
• Tornadoes in the northern hemisphere generally rotate in a counterclockwise direction, while the opposite is true in the southern hemisphere.
• Supercells spawn land tornadoes.  Dust devils and gustnadoes appear similar to tornadoes but they are distinct and far less dangerous phenomena.
• A waterspout is a relatively weak tornado that forms over water as a result of cumulus congestus clouds.
• Tornadoes are intense and can be long-lived. Consider the following extremes:
• The Bridge Creek-Moore tornado that happened just outside Oklahoma City in 1999 had winds of 301 mph, the highest wind speed ever recorded.
• The Great Bend tornado in Kansas that occurred in 1915 hurled a sack of flour 110 miles and a cancelled check 305 miles.
• In 1925, the nicknamed Tri-State Tornado that affected Missouri, Illinois and Indiana holds three records for traveling 219 miles at 73 mph and killing 295 people.

Classifications

Tornado strength is categorized by the following Enhanced Fujita Scale, whereby the storm receives an “F” rating from 0 to 5 based on the severity of the inflicted damage:

• EF0:  The weakest type of tornado can cause superficial damage to structures and vegetation.
• EF1:  This rated tornado can cause major roof damage, with mobile homes seriously damaged.
• EF2:  This stronger tornado may result in roof loss and wall collapse, with mobile homes destroyed and smaller trees uprooted.
• EF3:  This is the maximum level that allows for reasonably effective residential sheltering in a first-floor interior room. Small cars can become projectiles and large trees can be snapped.
• EF4:  At this level, most homes are completely destroyed, leaving a pile of debris on the foundation. A storm shelter is required to ensure safety. Trains and large trucks can be pushed over, and cars and large trees can be flung long distances.
• EF5:  As the result of this strongest and most dangerous tornado, well-built homes can be lifted from their foundations and shredded in mid-air, then dispersed as coarse granules over large areas. Large trucks and farm equipment can be smashed into their components parts, skyscrapers may actually be deformed, and entire communities may be leveled. At a rate of occurrence of just 0.1%, EF5 tornadoes are extremely rare, yet they have caused more than 20% of all tornado casualties.

While no two tornadoes are alike, the anatomy of a tornado’s attack on a house is as systematic as it is fierce and is defined as “a progressive failure [that] begins top-down, then outside-in,” according to Timothy Marshall, a tornado expert who writes for Popular Mechanics. Within the first second, pummeling debris tears away a structure’s roof shingles and decking, while wind shatters and rushes through windows and raises the internal pressure. The upward force of the wind on the underside of the already weakened roof, combined with the uplift forces above the roof caused by the high wind, quickly overcome the relatively weak connections between the roof and the walls. The roof tears away from the house, leaving the exterior walls unsupported. In another second, the exterior walls blow out – first, the side walls parallel to the straight-line winds, followed by the windward wall, and finally the back wall – leaving the interior walls unprotected against the maelstrom. An EF4 tornado needs only four seconds to wipe a foundation clean.

Myth vs. Fact

Knowing what not to do can be just as essential as taking the proper safety precautions. Misconceptions concerning tornadoes persist in the media, which may lead to avoidable damage and even unnecessary injuries and deaths.

We would like to dispel the following tornado myths that may harm building occupants:

• MYTH:  Open windows to equalize the barometric pressure between the interior and the exterior pressure caused by a nearby tornado, thereby preventing damage to the building.

FACT:  While a pressure imbalance does exist, it is not great enough to cause a building to explode outward, as was once hypothesized. Damage is primarily caused where wind breaches the building from the outside, which is why windows and other openings should remain closed. Moreover, openings on the windward side of a building actually increase internal wind pressure, resulting in additional uplift force on the roof.

• MYTH:  The safest location in a house is its southwest corner.

FACT:  This notion originated in the 1887 text Tornadoes, from which it became conventional wisdom until a 1966 study indicated that the southwest corner is actually the most dangerous place to be during a tornado. The safest part of a structure during a tornado is the lowest central room, especially a bathroom or the area beneath a stairwell.

• MYTH:  Tornadoes always travel in a northeasterly direction.

FACT:  While in most areas, tornadoes tend to follow their parent storms to the northeast, they may stop, change direction, or suddenly backtrack, seemingly at random. Local geography plays a part, too, such as in Minnesota, where tornadoes sometimes travel northwest, and in coastal south Texas, where they sometimes travel southeast.

• MYTH:  Tornadoes are “attracted to” mobile homes.

FACT:  The inordinate severity of damage inflicted on trailer parks, compared to conventional homes, can be attributed to the weakness of the building materials commonly used in mobile homes, their lack of foundations, and their small size.

• MYTH:  Large auditoriums are safer during tornadoes than houses.

FACT:  Many studies have concluded that large-span structures, such as auditoriums and gymnasiums, are vulnerable to high winds because of their high surface area. As such, these buildings should be avoided.

• MYTH:  Tornadoes do not strike cities.

FACT:  This myth is based on the comparatively small area occupied by downtown areas, which make them uncommon targets for tornadoes. Also, the urban heat-island effect may discourage the formation of weaker tornadoes. Significant tornadoes are unaffected by turbulent warm air, however, and EF4 and EF5 tornadoes have struck Atlanta, Georgia, Lubbock, Texas and even London, England.

• MYTH:  Mountains, lakes and rivers are significant barriers against tornadoes.

FACT:  Tornadoes have formed over rivers and lakes, and more than a dozen have crossed over the Mississippi River. Twisters have been observed as high as 12,000 feet (3,700 meters) above sea level and ascend 3,000-foot (910 meter) ridges without slowing down.

Damage to Homes

While much tornado destruction is obvious, some of the damage is only apparent upon closer inspection. Even an insurance adjuster can miss critical structural and safety defects that may cost the homeowner a fortune to repair.  According to CNN, a jury found that a major insurer acted “recklessly and with malice” while handling insurance claims resulting from the 1999 Oklahoma tornado, which posed serious safety defects to the building’s occupants. An unbiased and comprehensive assessment of the damage inflicted on a home by a tornado can be obtained by hiring our inspector. Read our article on Emergency Preparedness to find out what to do after an emergency

Specifically, the following elements should be inspected for damage:

• gas leaks. Uprooted trees may have damaged underground gas pipes, which can lead to deadly fires;
• electrical damage. Electrical equipment should be dried and checked before being returned to service. If you see sparks or broken or frayed wires, or if you smell burning insulation, turn off the electricity at the main fuse box or circuit breaker. If you have to step in water to get to the fuse box or circuit breaker, call a utility repairperson or an electrician first for advice;
• plumbing. Tornadoes can easily shake and rattle a home, causing plumbing lines to twist and crack. Following the storm, homeowners can check their plumbing by turning on all plumbing fixtures, checking cabinets for signs of water damage, and checking ceilings from below for staining. Avoid using toilets if sewage lines have been damaged;
• roof and siding. Cracking, tears and gouges caused to the roof and siding by flying debris will eventually allow for the entry of rainwater and snowmelt. Gable roofs are especially vulnerable to damage from the high wind generated by tornadoes. For additional support, attach wall studs to roof rafters using hurricane clips, not nails;
• chimney damage. Chimney damage may slow or stop the ventilation of carbon monoxide (CO) – a poisonous, colorless, odorless and tasteless gas – allowing it to accumulate in the living area. Inspect the chimney closely for damage in a tornado-damaged house. For more information, read InterNACHI’s article on chimney inspection;
• windows and gutters. Flying debris can smash windows, damage windowpanes and shutters, rip screens, and dent or tear away gutters;
• foundation. Strong winds can cause foundations to uplift. Check the perimeter of crawlspaces for any changes and inspect masonry for signs of separation or cracking;
• interior. Inspect for stress cracks in the corners where walls and ceilings meet, and especially the areas above windows and doors. Use a level to check for cupping of the floor and bowing of the walls. Water stains and mold on interior walls may appear some time after the tornado, indicating overlooked damage to the roof that has permitted moisture intrusion; and
• garage doors. Due to their large surface area, garage doors can be damaged or blown in before other parts of the house are damaged. The wind may then damage the interior and accelerate the home’s collapse. Garage door system technicians can be hired to install horizontal bracing, impact-resistant coverings, and strengthen weak hinges and glider wheel tracks. Old or damaged doors should be replaced.

Tips for Clients

If a tornado is in your area, immediately take shelter indoors, preferably in a basement or first-floor room, closet, hallway, or the void beneath a stairwell. Bathrooms are generally safe, as plumbing fixtures strengthen the walls and anchor them to the ground, and bathtubs can protect against flying debris. Crouch face down beneath a heavy table or workbench, and cover your head with your hands to protect against falling debris.  Do not leave the building until the storm has passed. If possible, cover yourself with some sort of thick padding, such as blankets or a mattress.

 

Also, avoid the following areas:

• rooms with many windows. Before any other part of the house fails, windows typically shatter and allow the entry of dangerous projectiles, such as broken masonry and gravel, in addition to glass shards from the window itself;
• rooms with exterior walls. Exterior walls will fail before interior walls, which often survive intact;
• under heavy objects that are located on the floor above. A piano or refrigerator may fall through a weakened floor and crush anything below; and
• mobile homes. Only 10% of Americans live in mobile homes but nearly half of all tornado fatalities happen in them. Mobile homes that are not tied down can be flipped in 60- to 70-mph winds, and even small tornadoes can cause them to completely disintegrate, leaving occupants unprotected. Leave a mobile home immediately and seek shelter elsewhere. If none can be found, lie flat in the nearest ditch with your hands shielding your head.

Please pass on the following tips to your family and friends:

• Watch for atmospheric conditions that accompany tornadoes, such as a dark, greenish sky, large hailstones, a cloud of debris, a roaring noise, or a lowering, spinning storm cloud.
• Monitor the Emergency Alert System (EAS) on the radio or TV and listen for tornado advisories. A tornado watch means that conditions are favorable for a tornado to form, while a tornado warning means a tornado has been sighted or detected on radar.
• If a tornado is approaching, shut off the water either at the main meter or at the water main that leads into the home.
• Before a storm, shut off the electricity, as sparks from electrical switches could ignite gas and cause an explosion.
• Keep all hazardous materials, such as poisons and chemical solvents, stored in a secure area away from emergency food and water supplies.
• Arrange furniture so that chairs and beds are away from windows, mirrors and picture frames.
• Secure top-heavy, freestanding furniture, such as bookcases and China cabinets, with L-brackets, corner brackets, eyebolts, flexible cable or braided wire, and place heavy items on the bottom shelves.  This is an advisable safety precaution in general for families with small children and those who reside in earthquake-prone regions.
• Keep a disaster supply kit on hand. It should include a first-aid kit, a flashlight with extra batteries, essential medicines, a battery-operated radio, emergency food and water, and a hand-held can opener. 
• Install a safe room or storm shelter in or near the house. Read more about these in InterNACHI’s article on Safe Rooms.
• Following a storm, do not use matches, lighters or appliances or operate light switches until you are sure there are no gas leaks. If you smell gas or hear a hissing noise, open a window and leave the building as quickly as possible. Turn off the gas at the outside main valve if you can and call the gas company from a neighbor's home. Wait for a professional to turn the gas back on.
• Read InterNACHI’s article on Emergency Preparedness to find out what to do before and after an emergency.

In summary, tornadoes are devastating and unpredictable, but a little knowledge concerning their basic behavior can save lives.  We can all benefit by being aware and prepared in order to protect both our families and their properties.

From Tornado Safety and Inspection - InterNACHI http://www.nachi.org/tornado-safety-inspection.htm#ixzz1n7Z7WgVF

New year wish

Happy New Year All! Another year is ending and a new one
beginning.  This is a good thing as it gives us the
opportunity to start fresh and renew our enthusiasm.

Each day could be looked at that way, too.  If fact, some
people see waking up each morning as the beginning of
not only a new day, but a new life.  Then when they go
to sleep, that is the end of the day and the end of that
life -- a small death if you will.

People who think that way try to make the day as full
as possible...filled up with happiness, accomplishments,
good deeds, gratitude and love.

After all, if you knew you only had 16 hours to live, would
you fill it with frustration, fear, anger, envy or greed?  Or,
would you try to be the best you could be and be as
happy as you could and accomplish as much as you
could and help others as much as you could and love
as much as you could?  And be thankful for everything!

Of  course, that's an extreme way of viewing life.  But,
you have to admit, if you look over the past year, there's
a lot of opportunity to make improvement.

I want each of you to accomplish more in the next year than
you have in the past 10 years.  That's my New Year
wish for each of you.

And in dealing with people, I will leave you this quote
from Og Mandino...

“Beginning today, treat everyone you meet as if they
were going to be dead by midnight. Extend to them all
the care, kindness and understanding you can muster,
and do so with no thought of any reward. Your life will
never be the same again.”

Happy New Year!